Sarajevo City

In this post we’re interested in something very specific because it’s related to what we like to do – casinos.  We like a gamble every now and then and Central Asia and Eastern Europe offers a great range of options for the discerning blackjack or roulette player.  Sarejevo is no exception except that it only has one casino.  The good news is that it’s a good one.

The Coloseum Club in Sarajevo is part of the Europe wide HIT Group who’s portfolio covers a range of diverse businesses.  The Coloseum Club is always a favourite destination for visitors, especially those who like to spend a few hours playing a few hands of poker or taking advantage of the slot machines.  It’s open 24 hours a day so if that flight arrives at an awkward time you know there’s always somewhere open for some casino action and refreshment.

Once inside there’s an impressive array of options available for the discerning gambler – American roulette, blackjack, Texas Hold’em and Omaha as well as a range of slot machines and video poker (there’s some great one-armed bandits here).   The Coloseum also offers a range of entertainment options most nights of the week, whether you want to boogie the night away on the dance-floor or watch one of the bands which regularly play here.

To start the evening, why not head to the Bacchus Bar or the Arena Restaurant for some great food and a drink before you head for the poker tables.

As the capital city, Zagreb has the lion’s share of the biggest casinos so in this post we’re going to take a look at several of the best places to try your luck if roulette, blackjack, craps or keno is your thing.

Zagreb at night

The Casino Fortuna  is a good place to start – it’s always been the place most gambling tourists head for when in Zagreb.  It’s big plus point is that it never closes, it’s open 24 hours a day for all your gaming needs.  There’s well over 100 slot machines for the slots fans and ten table games for the roulette and blackjack fans.  Poker players are also well catered for.  Unlike some of Zagreb’s smaller casinos, sports betting is also available here, as is a bar for refreshments.

Just slightly smaller is the Casino International.  It’s hours are still pretty long (9am – 4am) and it has a similar number of slot machines and table games.  Electronic roulette is the thing here which isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but it always proves popular.  Poker and blackjack are also available, as is a sports book.

Another 24 hour casino is the Golden Sun, it’s another 24 hour venue with 100+ gaming machines (slots, video poker) and a decent selection of table games and poker offerings.

For a bit of exclusivity, how about the Casino Royal - it will cost you around $10 to get in so make the most of it.  Dress accordingly and don’t arrive before 9pm because it won’t be open until then.  Once inside there’s a reasonable number of slots and table games but it’s all about the atmosphere here.  If you want the 007 treatment, this is the place.

One more then and another 24 hour venue.  The Esplanade Hotel and Casino is also a large hotel with a decent selection of slots and table games.  The advantage is that once you’ve had enough, you can just wander back to your room and play online.

Well that was tough for them but there are still plenty of expats and locals in Almaty who are enthusiastic about what this interesting city can offer and more than a few like to visit the casinos here and wile away some hours playing poker, blackjack, roulette – all the diversions that an enthusiastic gambler is keen to enjoy.  So where can you go in Almaty for a few hands, some spins or some slots action or some Casino online?

Let’s start with Zodiak Casinos – situated on Roxybakieva Street just to the periphery of the city centre it’s been open since 2002 and those ten years of experience have been put to good use.  It’s a professional outfit which is open anytime of the day or night and it’s free to get in.  Once you are inside you can take your choice of 14 tables in the Main Hall or another 7 tables in the VIP area (the minimum and maximum stakes are higher here).  Games played here are Keno online, roulette, 6 card poker and blackjack, there’s a free buffet and occasional free drinks.  Zodiak also operates a casino in Astana.

Staff at a Kapshagay Casino

Casino Plaza is our next choice; located on Satpayeva Streets near the centre of Almaty this has been a local favourite for a while now.  It features 21 table games which comprise American roulette, blackjack, Caribbean Stud poker and Punto Banco.  Even better it contains more than 30 slot machines for your amusement.  It’s open from 3pm to 8am so get some Keno Winning Tipps.

We should talk a little bit about Kaz Vegas next.  This is the once drab town of Kapshagay about an hours drive north of Almaty.  Many of Almaty’s casinos were forced to relocate here following a 2006 law which restricted them to certain areas.  There are now an amazing 11 casinos situated here which draw in regular clientele from the old capital, looking to learn the Game Rules of Keno.  This is development of exclusive premises with tight security and big gates and fences.  It’s worth making the drive north but it’ll cost you……

A relatively brief article such as this is nowhere near long enough to describe every single thing to see and do in Herat but we’re going to try and provide an overview of the types of things available.

Mosques

With it’s overwhelmingly Islamic influence, it’s no surprise that Herat features many mosques.  The most important example is the Jumah Mosque, also known as the Friday Mosque of Herat.  It was begun in the 13th century and has been added to and improved in the subsequent centuries by Mughals and Uzbeks among others.  It replaced two Zoroastrian Fire Temples and a smaller, older Islamic mosque.  It’s referred to as the Friday mosque as this is the day when sermons are provided to larger crowds in the bigger mosques.  Other mosques in Herat include Shah Zahdahe, Gazargah Sharif and Khalghe Sharif.

Jumah Mosque

Herat Citadel

The Citadel is where most visitors head to begin with.  Alexander the Great appears to have been responsible for its construction when he conquered the region in 330BC.  In recent years it has been beautifully restored by Afghan tradesman following many years of neglect.  Interestingly it was restored in the late 1970s by UNESCO before being damaged in later conflicts.  Built as a fort and trading centre, the Citadel helped cement Herat’s status as a major stop on the silk road.  It’s worth noting that over the centuries the Citadel has been almost completely destroyed several times and then rebuilt.

Herat Citadel

Tombs and Mausoleums

Like many old cities, Herat has a custom of remembering it’s influential citizens and in this case it’s by the construction of tombs and mausoleums.  One of our favourites is the 1000 year old Gazar Gar (it’s full name is the Khwaya ‘Abd Allah Ansari tomb) and it houses the remains of the sufi mystic Khwajah Abdullah Ansari.  It’s not the only one and other tombs include the Tomb of Jami, the Tomb of khaje Qaltan and the Mausoleum of Mirwais Sadiq.

Gazah Gah

To get to Herat the easiest way is to fly from Kabul but the more adventurous may find overland travel from Iran or Turkmenistan more exciting.  As always in this region, get plenty of local security advice before you go and make sure your visas are in order.

So on to Herat then, the third largest city in Afghanistan and the capital of Herat province.  It has escaped much of the destruction suffered by the rest of the country in the recent 15 years or so and if you can get here, it’s worthwhile.

Afghanistan Map

History

Herat is certainly old but of slightly indeterminate age; the region is first referred to around 2500 years ago and possibly named after the Hari River which now runs a few miles south of modern Herat.  Another argument suggest it was named after the founder of the city.

Herat, also referred to as Aria in early documents, has been part of several Central Asian empires over the centuries including the Achaemenid, the Selucid and the Parthian.  It even came within Alexander the Great’s sphere of influence in the 4th century BC.

Silk Road

The Sasanid Empire took control of the area from the Parthians between the 3rd and the 7th centuries AD and it was the last non-Islamic empire.  Herat probably submitted to Islamic rule without a fight in 652 AD.  The subsequent couple of centuries saw a succession of repelled Arab invasions and by the 10th century hostilities had largely ceased, enabling Herat to establish itself as a major trading town on the Silk Road, the enormous trading network running between China, India and the Mediterranean.

In 1175 it was captured by the Ghurids of the Khawarazm Empire and entered a period in which it flourished both economically and culturally.  The population rose to at least half a million people, mainly Sunni Muslim.

Pearl of Khorasan

That all joined in 1221 as Genghis Khan began to maraud across the continent, conquering everything in his path.  Herat was destroyed and not rebuilt until 1236 and in such a way as to become known as the Pearl of Khorasan.  The next significant period was the rule of the Timurid Princes from 1380 until the beginning of the 16th century.

Ahmad Shah Durrani

From 1507 until 1716 the ownership of Herat swapped between the Uzbeks and the Safavids until it finally come under the Afghan rule of Nader Shah several years later.  Following Shah’s death, Ahmed Shah Durrani took control on behalf of the Durrani Empire.  The Ghilzais then took over until 1824 when Herat became independent for a brief period as the Durrani’s and the Barakzais split Afghanistan between themselves.

The Great Game

By this time though, the Great Game was under way – the unreported war between the Russian and British Empires for control of the vast area between Russia and British India.  In 1852 and 1856 though, it was the Persians who attempted to take Herat from the British-supported rulers.  On both occasions a desperate defensive effort was fought resulting in the invaders being repelled.

Anglo-Persian War

By the beginning of the 20th century the Great Game was over, ended by the Anglo-Russian Convention in 1907 and the subsequent decades have been marked largely by Russian intervention and eventual retreat in the 1980s.  The militant Islamic Taliban took control in 1995, followed by an international military effort to defeat them which is still underway now.

Part Two follows….

Because Croatia is so near to Italy, it shares a lot of its culture with this country. I had the best pizza outside of Rome when I stayed here. Croatia also makes its own wines and oils and these can be bought cheaply for you to take home. You can also see Italian influences in the architecture all over the country, making Croatia the perfect place to take a holiday as tourist numbers are kept down. While staying there, if you wanted to take a trip up to Italy, then why not take an organised boat trip to Venice which is the closest port.

The best way to see Croatia is by cycling around its coastal paths which offer perfect views of the sea. You can easily rent bikes at the seaside towns and then spend a day riding to the next town and seeing the sites there. All can be done cheaply and on a budget. I would recommend Croatia to anyone who wants a break from the typical tourist holidays like Greece and Italy. It really is a sun, sea and sand holiday.

Saying that, there is enough to do in this slightly bizarre city to keep you amused for a few days.  Astana hasn’t been the capital for long – in fact only since 1997 when the city of Aqmola was renamed Astana and Almaty became the former capital.  Almaty suffers from seismic activity and is close to the Chinese and Krygyz borders and for these reasons, kazakhstan decided it needed a new capital.  Anecdotally, foreign diplomatic staff were said to have been appalled to be leaving the charismatic, European-influenced Almaty for the new city in the middle of nowhere.

Bayterek Tower

So what to do?  Well architectural students will love the large number of fantastic and bizarre glass and steel buildings which are being developed to the south of the river.  They are sprouting up around the Bayterek Tower area and it is the tower which is the focal point for locals and visitors.  It’s a 105 metre tall structure which can be ascended and when you get to the top, you can place your hand in the imprint of the first President of independent Kazahkstan.  The views are good too.

Khan Shatyr

The Khan Shatyr is a newer addition.  This is a Sir Norman Foster designed gigantic tent not far from the Bayterek Tower which hosts an array of entertainment and retail facilities inside.  ‘Tent’ is a little misleading – it’s a very impressive structure which has been designed to cope with the low winter temperatures (- 35C) and high summer ones (+ 35C).  It’s easy to get to this area by bus from the city centre but it’s also walkable if you’re feeling fit and it’s not too hot or cold.

Back towards the city centre is the riverside area and this tends to be overlooked by tourists who don’t stick around too long in Astana.  There’s a small artificial ‘beach’ area which leads down to the Ishim River and a roped off area in the water in which you can swim, although the water looks a strange colour.  To the south of the beach is a medium-sized park which contains a few small fairground rides for kids but it’s a great place for a pleasant stroll among the trees and along the small paths.

Astana Beach

For fans of culture, there are several museums but when we visited in 2008, if you didn’t speak Russian you could only look at the pictures and artifacts.  Really, the attraction of Astana is the architecture and a wander around the streets will turn up a number of religious monuments and other memorials to various political and military heroes.  The Ak Orda Presidential Palace and the Islamic Centre (the Nur-Astana mosque) are also worth a visit.

The small coastal town we’re visiting is Haapsalu and if you’re in the area, there’s no reason not to make the relatively short trip from Tallinn down to the seaside to find out what has made this spot a popular destination for at least a hundred years.

Haapsalu sunset

Before the Russian revolution in 1918 and when the Tsar was the undisputed ruler, the Russian royal family would make their way down to Haapsalu.  St. Petersburg is a relatively short trip for anyone used to the enormous distances in Russia and it’s no surprise that rich Russians would head to this small town for a holiday.

It was in this era that the town began to be developed and it still retains the Victorian atmosphere from those days.  Haapsalu was also popular prior to the arrival of the Russians for another reason, the curative mud which local people used to treat various ailments.  From at least the beginning of the 19th century, visitors had travelled to Haapsalu to sample the mud and in 1825 a doctor called Carl Abraham Hunnius opened the first resort which catered to their needs.

Haapsalu cathedral

The mud and the beach aren’t the only attractions here; Haapsalu has a recorded history of at least 800 years and there are one or two sites dotted around that are well worth a visit.  In the 13th century, Haapsalu became the Bishopric of Osel-Wiek, leading to the building of the Bishop’s Castle, the largest single nave cathedral in the Baltic states and a very popular tourist attraction.

It’s pretty easy to get to Haapsalu – once you’ve arrived in Tallinn, plenty of buses ply the route between the capital and the coast.  Alternatively, hire a car and drive yourself – it’s a great day out.

History

The first records of a settlement in this area comes from the 13th century but the name recorded by those who visited was Xacitarxan.  When Tamerlane was rampaging around the region in the late 14th century he razed it to the ground but by the middle of the 15th century it had been rebuilt, under the same name and emerging as the principal city of the Astrakhan Khanate.  This is not the Astrakhan of today and it’s remains can be seen a few kilometres to the north of the city’s current location.

Ivan the Terrible overran the Astrakhan Khanate in 1556 and built a fortress on the site of modern Astrakhan.  There now followed 150 years or so of intermingled peace and violence, often between the Tsar and his Cossack rivals but ultimately the Tsar won out and the city became an important gateway to the East because of it’s strategic position on the Caspian and the Volga.  It was also useful as a staging point during the battle for Central Asia between the Russian and British Empires in the 19th century.

How To Get Here

You can fly here from Moscow as well as neighbouring countries but make sure your visas are in order if you require one.  A more interesting route is the overnight train from Moscow but it’s a good idea to book ahead.

The really impressive way to get her though is on the Volga itself and plenty of Russian cruise lines service the route between Moscow and Astrakhan which takes about ten days. They run from May to September.

Volga cruise

What To See And Do In Astrakhan

Due to it’s location and strategic trading importance in earlier centuries, Astrakhan has an enchanting mix of cultures from the surrounding regions and much of what is attractive about this city stems from that diversity.  You can see it in the architecture, the dress and the food and it adds some life to what could have been a drab Soviet city.

Astrakhan Kremlin

This is probably the biggest tourist attraction; built by Ivan the Terrible after 1580 and situated on the highest point in the city.  It was actually in development for forty years and much of the building material came from the ruins of the Mongol capitals along the Volga.

Astrakhan Kremlin

Hunting and Fishing

There’s no escaping the wealthy Russians in Astrakhan in the hunting season and some 30% of the Russian market in fishing/hunting takes place here.  North of the city are numerous locations specially set up for this activity but they tend to be privately owned by Moscow-based companies.  If you’d like to partake, ask locally before heading out with a fishing rod/rifle on your own.

In Part One of our Bishkek guide, we wrote briefly about the history of this fascinating city and as you’d expect the things to see here largely revolve around the culture and architecture.  Check out the list below for a few recommendations of what to visit in the area.

Tash Rabat Caravanserai

Caravanserai hold a special place in the history of Central Asia.  These places marked rest stops along the vast distances travelled along the various Silk Road routes.  In time they became the focal points between the networks of routes that connected China to countries further west.

Tash Rabat dates from about the 15th century although it is possibly the site of an earlier Buddhist monastary.  Before you set out from Bishkek though, you should be aware that it’s more than 500 km away and therefore a trip which involves some planning.

Tash Rabat Caravanserai

Osh Bazaar

Every city in the world has it’s impressive markets and Bishkek is no exception.  They’re a great way to see and interact with the locals in a genuine environment and Osh Bazaar, to the west of Bishkek, is great place to visit.  As with any market familiar with tourists, there’s loads of souvenirs here – you may or not want to avoid those areas.  It’s a massive market and one not to miss.

Osh Bazaar

Bishkek National Historical Museum

Another way to take in some local culture, not to mention an added helping of history, is to visit Bishkek National Historical Museum, a regionally renowned museum which documents Kyrgyzstan life from their nomadic beginnings up until the Second World War.  It’s easy to find at Bishkek’s Ala-Too Square and is well worth setting aside a few hours to visit.

Bishkek National Historical Museum

Ala-Archa Gorge

Lastly, let’s take a trip out to Ala-Archa National Park, just 40 km south of Bishkek and a fantastic location for day-trippers, hikers and skiers (at the right time of year).  Most visitors check out the above-mentioned gorge, formed by millions of years of erosion by the Ala-Archa river.

Ala-Archa Gorge